As work has seen fit to ship me halfway across the world to sunny London, I thought I'd take the opportunity to do a roving review. This mission found me last night at the
American Bar in the Savoy Hotel, with one of my friends from work as a guest club member.
Now you might think that as gin is a British concoction getting a good martini would be easy in London, but you would be wrong. The British like their gin with tonic (and also use it to pickle members of their royal family). The dry martini is an American invention, and accordingly the only places to drink good martinis are big plush hotels with a significant American clientele (
apparently - clearly as I've only been here for two weeks I haven't made an exhaustive search).
The menu was promising. After a false start, with an earlier page called "martinis" containing only funny vodka drinks with little or no resemblance to the real thing, I found the proper martini page of the menu. Ignoring the prices (it's best to do that in London I've found, otherwise you retreat in fright from just about every purchase you want to make), the choice was rather overwhelming. The Savoy provides the option of six different gins (Tanqueray, Gordon's, Bombay Sapphire, Tanqueray '10', Plymouth and Junipero), three different vermouths (Noilly Prat, Martini & Rossi and Cinzano) and a barrage of garnishes from the standard olive or lemon twist through to other variants such as cocktail onions. And so into the breach!
In order to sample this menu appropriately we each decided to have different gins in our martinis. I started with the Plymouth and Helen had the Junipero. Noilly Prat and an olive garnish for both. I asked the rather posh, tuxedo-clad (white jacket if you please, not a "dinner suit") waiter for a dry martini, and then when he started talking about opening the bottle of vermouth and showing it to the gin I had to elaborate - not Churchill dry (which is just an excuse to drink straight gin really - but hey, his alcoholism got the British through WWII), rather with a hint of vermouth to balance the gin.
While the martinis were in progress (sadly as we were seated away from the bar I cannot relate martini construction techniques), we were brought some rather nice salted almonds and some olives. I like it when they bring you free nibbles - it also helped us to have a balanced dinner - gin (carbs), some olives (fruit and veges) and some nuts (protein).
The martinis were fantastic. The Plymouth is rapidly emerging as my favourite gin - slightly oily, very flavoursome, not too overpoweringly "junipery"... Whatever the bartender did, he did it right - there was no trace of wateriness, it was icy cold and well-balaced to highlight the flavours of the gin. Made exactly to order, with a touch of vermouth and a couple of plump green olives. The Junipero was a little stronger on the botanicals - less to my taste but nevertheless very drinkable. It's the kind of gin that grows on you (although many things grow on you as you work your way through a martini!).

With the first round down, we were having too much fun to leave, so we had another round. Helen opted for a cocktail this time, while I sampled the Tanqeray 10. This was a new gin for me and I like it a lot. It's milder than the standard Tanqueray and seems to be perfect for a contemplative martini, as opposed to the times when you want a pushy martini. Again, the martini itself was perfectly constructed. So, on to round three! The standard Tanqueray this time, which wasn't really on par with the previous offerings as gins go - at this price point I prefer Bombay Sapphire. The bartender, however, proved again that he is a skilled man with a martini spoon, as you can tell by the fact that I'm talking about the flavours of different gins and not how crap the drink construction was! By the time we toddled into a taxi (£90 of drinks later, ouch) we had had a truly excellent night. One to try yourself if you come to London.
The Martini 
Spectacular. I'm taking off half a star because of the staggering price tag (£12, which is approximately A$30) and the fact that the olives were stuffed rather than whole. Admittedly this gets around the whole messy olive pip issue if you want your bar to stay nice and neat, but it does mean that the olive stuffing distracts your palate a bit.
The Bar 
Very comfortable but not really hugely distinctive. It's trying to act out its glamorous past, but honestly anyone can just drop into five star hotels these days (for example, we did!) - just putting a picture of Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall on the wall does not a movie star magnet venue make. That said, perhaps I'm being unfair. The service was truly impeccable and the surroundings were relaxed and fashionably art deco retro. The jazz piano was a bit wallpaper-ish, but then I don't imagine the patrons are there for the music. Overall it was a comfortable place to spend 3-4 hours drinking.